‘Red Earth’ Top End Indigenous Immersion 2023

Over 10 days from the end of July to early August, 21 Yr 9 students and two teachers ventured to the top end of the Northern Territory for the Red Earth Indigenous Immersion Trip. The expedition was full of adventure, learning, and fun; it was an experience we will all treasure for years to come as we listened to captivating stories from Elders and immersed ourselves in rich and authentic encounters with First Nations people and their landscape. It was a far cry from the comforts of life back home yet left an indelible mark on us all.

After much preparation, we were in high spirits as we travelled to the airport for our evening flight to Darwin. Despite a few complications with our flight and a speedy change of plans, our enthusiasm and anticipation remained strong on arrival to Free Spirit Resort at 12.30 am. Waking to warmth and a glorious blue sky, we set off on the short drive to Berry Springs and were rewarded with a beautiful waterhole that is a popular swimming spot with several pools and a small waterfall offering crystal clear spring water and a lush bush surrounding. The next day we visited more stunning waterfalls in Litchfield National Park, hiking the 3 km over the top of Wangi Falls and underneath the canopy of trees for some spectacular sights and then having a refreshing swim at Florence Falls. That night, Gazza, our Red Earth leader, set the scene for our Homelands experience by sharing the story around the campfire of Vincent Lingiari and the Gurindji people’s fight for their land via Paul Kelly’s song, “From Little Things, Big Things Grow”. It reminded us of the shocking treatment Indigenous people were subjected to in the 60s and 70s, and the changes their brave struggles brought about.

On arrival to our first homeland, Banatjarl, on Jawoyn Country, we noticed the compound we were to live in surrounded by barbed wire and quickly learnt about water buffalos and not to leave the compound gate open at night. The community and elders – Aunty Chyo and Aunty Betty – shared in our evening meal and we sat in a circle listening to the myriad of bush sounds, some unusual, as we marvelled at the bright, starry night. Seeing the relationships of Barnatjarl really opened our hearts and made us rethink the concept of what we call family. When the community kids wanted to stay and play with us, Shantel (nicknamed Shorty) stayed to look after them and keep them safe from the water buffalo on their walk home. We developed a strong connection with the children through a common interest, football! The boys vs girls game in the shed got competitive at a fast rate yet it built a sense of belonging and teamwork throughout the group. Our bus driver, Norm, even commented during our nightly shoutouts in circle time that it was the quickest a school group had ever bonded with the family and he was amazed at our willingness to just open up and engage.

Next day, the girls took part in a weaving and bush medicine session which really opened our eyes to how much we pay for medicine, made by big companies with all these chemicals, when it’s all out here on Country. We watched as the Traditional Owners made an antiseptic cream from lemon grass that we all got a sample of to take home. However, before we could start, one of the men in the community saw beady eyes in the mat which turned out to be a small carpet python, so we were all quick to retreat to the safety of the table whilst it was returned to the wild. The boys made clap sticks and learned a traditional dance with Shane and Shandon, Auntie Chyo’s nephews, which they presented that night.

At sunset, the girls were shown how to make damper and the boys how to cook kangaroo tails (by burning the skin first and then cooking it in hot coals) which was a really eye - opening experience. Some said it tasted like lamb whilst others described it more as pulled pork; either way it was delicious and reminded us of how readily Indigenous men can hunt for food. The elders then took us for a walk to sit on the cliff edge and watch the sun set, reflecting on the ancestors who have walked this land before us and how carefully they cared for it in a sustainable way. After dinner, we all sat around the fire and got our skin names and found out who is part of our families Then the boys presented their dance using the rhythm of their clap sticks, the girls joined in waving leaves. We then learnt some of the Jawoyn language and heard a few Dreamtime stories before settling to sleep and waking up to Mitch Tambo music and Tully’s clap sticks. Although the realisation was a bit confronting, it began to dawn on us that the privileged life we lead back in Geelong was not synonymous with the life of many up north who shared this great land of ours. We discovered that Jawoyn Country is a place where First Nations stories are told and their ancestors belong, where vast landscapes of sandstone gorges, cascading waterfalls and rocky terrains, hold and bring alive their Dreaming. It’s a land that has sustained life for millennia, incorporating all these different plants and animals that are a source of nourishment and healing.

Next stop was in a remote part of land west of Katherine. This Homeland was situated on Wardaman Country in the rugged wilderness surrounded by wild donkeys, horses, dingoes and freshwater crocs. From the moment we arrived at Menngen Homeland, the learning began – from being Welcomed to Country by Emma as she placed water over our heads so the ancestors could protect us whilst on their land, through to the conversations we had whilst sitting around a campfire listening to the raw, and at times, sad stories told by the 93 year old Elder and accomplished artist, Bill Harney, whose love for his people and land was inspiring. He recalled being hidden by his mother as a child so the welfare men didn’t get him, living in caves and beneath rockfaces at MoonDreaming where ancient art still remains today and as a stockman challenging the wealthy station owners to improve working conditions for Indigenous men. He explained why living on the Homeland is so important to reconnecting with one’s identity and played his clapsticks, asking us all to get up and dance. It was so much fun! We fished and had swims in the billabongs, painted our story against the backdrop of ancient stories on rock walls, witnessed the land management of burning off, painted our bodies with rose gold ochre (girls) and white/yellow ochre (boys), visited the newly established School of the Air and woke early to witness mesmerising sunsets. We also made kangaroo stew, tenderising it in the coals for 3-4hrs; saw a friendly water monitor and heard the howls of dingoes late one night. Uncle Bill was quite reassuring of our safety, reminding us how to live with potential dangers in the bush and to not disturb these creatures’ path: “Leave them alone and they’ll leave you alone.” Each day was filled with learnings – learnings that were stimulating and real. During our time at Menngen, we were exposed to ways of thinking that many of us hadn’t considered before and these insights developed in us greater understanding and respect. In Bill and his art forms, we saw a celebration of his Wardaman Aboriginal heritage and his unique ability to “walk in both worlds” and communicate the joy of his culture to others.

After four days, we farewelled Menngen and began the closing day of our trip with a visit to Nitmulik National Park and a cruise down the gorge with its fruit bats, towering sandstone cliffs and ancient rock art sites. On the drive back to Darwin, we made a quick stop at Edith Falls for a final swim before having tea, packing our bags and getting ready to leave the Top End for home. We were grateful that we had learnt how to survive without any devices, pack up campsites without leaving a trace on the environment, and live off the land in a way that was cultivated through thousands of years of Indigenous practices.

This Immersion was such a transformative experience. Ms Williamson and I were constantly in awe of our students’ willingness to learn and grow. At times, their capacity to adapt astounded us! The pride we felt for them as they immersed themselves in this rich and authentic learning on Country was immense. They also learnt what is truly important… to listen, to value, to honour and to be the future voices for Indigenous rights. Each of us took away memories, jammed packed with experiences that we will take with us throughout our life. Thanks to families for supporting this program, to our students for being so vulnerable, to Ms Williamson for accompanying us and sharing duties on this journey, to Mr Exton, our Principal, for believing in the importance of the lived experience and to Red Earth for being a driver of reconciliation by providing Traditional Owners in remote Australia the means by which to welcome and open the hearts of others to their Country, culture and way of life.

In closing, they use this expression in Jawoyn language to say goodbye, “Bobo”…until we meet again, whether in the present or Dreamtime. And so we gratefully say goodbye to all our Indigenous brothers and sisters in the Northern Territory and thank them for their hospitality, memories and for the opportunity to broaden our minds to remote Indigenous life. We hope to return one day!

Deb Hodge & Kristin Williamson

2023 Immersion Leaders

.